OLTRE IL MURO: ARTE e FOTOGRAFIA: PEREGRINATION TO BLACK JERUSALEM . LALIBELA –ETHIOPIA by FERNANDO MORELES

martedì 3 luglio 2012

PEREGRINATION TO BLACK JERUSALEM . LALIBELA –ETHIOPIA by FERNANDO MORELES

In the mountains of Ethiopia is one of the world´s greatest mysteries:

11 stunning Christian churches buried underground and hidden in secret caves.
These churches are in Lalibela , the town hailed by pilgrims as “ the black Jerusalem”. Every Christmas thousands of pilgrims walk during days to pray day and night, it’s a trip to the past time.

Modern archeologists remain unable to explain how this complex of rock hewn churches were built.

1A. Thousands of Christians peregrinates to Lalibela, its a religious promise that Ortodox Coptic of Ethiopia must do it at least one time before dying. Most of them are very poor farmers coming from isolated areas on foot during days, weeks passing famine and the cold nights at open air.

Nowsdays thousand of Christians peregrinate on foot during days, weeks to lalibela. During the Middle Ages Lalibela was a centre of alternative pilgrimage to Jerusalem for Christians Copts due to Islamic invasion of Holy land.

Monastery of Debra Damos is only accessible climbing a wall of 15 meters and everyday many monks, even older than seventy years old, go up and down. His cemetery is too much appreciated for Orthodox to be buried in. Nowadays are living around one hundred monks (in the past 6.000). It was built in isolated area at the top of a big monolithic mountain during the Islamic invasion of Tigray.
These religious centres were the salvation of Gueéz, a death language of cryptic symbols, the oldest of continent in which is written Holy Scripture.

Debra Damos is a rock fortress monastery only accessible climbing a wall of 15 meters that every day many monks, even older than seventy years old, go up. Nowadays are living around one hundred monks (in the past 6.000). It was built in isolated area at the top of a big monolithic mountain during the Islamic invasion of Tigray. These religious centres were the salvation of Gueéz, a death language of cryptic symbols, the oldest of continent in which is written Holy Scripture.

Thousands of Christians pilgrimate to Lalibela, its a religious promise that Ethiopian Orthodox must do at least once before dying. Most of them are very poor farmers coming from isolated areas on foot during days, weeks passing hunger and cold nights at open air.

Bet Giorges - a unique rock-hewn church with groundfloor of Greek Cross - was caved between 1137 and 1221. A church of thirteen meters in monolithic stone of volcanic rock called tufa. King Lalibela after his visitation to Holy Land wanted to build a new holy city substitute of Jerusalem and had the inestimable knowledge of Christian Egypt whom escaped from Islamic invasion.
The whole 13 Th rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are considerate as candidate to 8 Th world wonder.

Pilgrims arriving to Bet Debra Sinai (mount Sinai house) whose interior holds the “ Jesus´cell “, o his tomb. Most of pilgrims are illiterate farmers of isolated highland areas without exterior communication whom are shock of Lalibela rock-hewn churches. These magnificent temples, carved from volcanic tufa( the same rock into which the persecuted Christian Troglodytes of Turkey cut their underground cities), defy the imagination. Lalibela performed this feat in order to create a substitute Jerusalem, and to save his people the increasingly difficult and dangerous pilgrimage overseas through hostile territory.

Ethiopian Orthodox Coptic has a deep faith with their roots sank in the early Christians and with Judaism influences. Believers kiss and touch with head the wall of church and every place around holy sites. In proof of respect everybody take off shoes before go inside religious temples.

Pilgrims wrapped in theirs netelas (ceremony cloth) praying outside during a religious worship in Bet Madhane Alem church. . Ethiopian Orthodox Coptic have a deep faith with their roots sank in the early Christians and with Judaism influences

Woman praying outside Bet Medhane Alem church.
Pilgrims walk during days or weeks to pray in Lalibela rock-hewn churches during Christmas worship. Ethiopian Orthodox have a deep faith whose roots sank in the early Christians and have great influences of Judaism. Ethiopian Church developed own conventions of liturgy and spirituality. So the believers don´t go inside temples – except ancient and children, to receive Holy Communion -, but stay outside , listening sermon and before return kiss the church´s wall.

Feet of pilgrim deacon that come to Lalibela for third time , from Woldya, five days far away. Everyday and during two weeks this deacon pray in San Michael church during six hours.

Pilgrims, wrapped in theirs natela (ceremony cloth), praying outside of Bet Maryann rock-hewn church the daybreak of 7 Th January that is the main day of Orthodox Christmas.
Ethiopian Church developed own conventions of liturgy and spirituality. So the believers don’t go inside temples – except ancient and children, to receive Holy Communion -, but stay outside, listening sermon and before return kiss the church’s wall.

Prayers outside Bet Debre Sinai church also called San Michael, a rock-hewn temple that legend place Lalibela king’s tomb and was built to repair the profanation of Holy places in Jerusalem by Islamic invasion. Ethiopian Church developed own conventions of liturgy and spirituality. So the believers don’t go inside temples – except ancient and children, to receive Holy Communion -, but stay outside, listening sermon and before return kiss the church’s wall.

Deacon cross the tunnel to Asheten monastery which is located to half day far from Lalibela. At four thousand meters of altitude has an unbelievable view and is visited for many pilgrims.

Everyday a ray light illuminates during half-hour the interior of Abuna Aron rock-hewn church. Coinciding with this phenomenon priest read Holy Bible written in Gue´ez, a death language known only for the clergy and used for religious worships.
This magic hole is the unique entry of natural light but not permit that rain go inside.

Thousand of peasants peregrinate to Lalibela at Christmas to pray and listen the preaches of hermit monks in Amharic language. Most population of remote highlands are illiterate, unable to read or understand the religious worships celebrated in Gue éz, a death language known only for clergy.

Pilgrim in a mystic trance in front of huge entry to Bet Madhane Alem rock-hewn church. For peasants that live in remote rural areas without communication the wonderful Lalibela produces a shock.

Pilgrim’s tattoo. Symbols of beauty between women of Amharic and Tigrinya ethnic groups are tattoos in blue ink that decorate face, neck and hands. Cross is the most venerate tattoo between them and an essential element that symbolise the faith of Every Orthodox Ethiopian that can be: Latin, Greek, circle or David star form.

The enormous devotion with a deep faith of Orthodox peasants is the bigger exhaust valve of a population who lives great shortages with material poverty difficult to imagine.

The five hundred monks and priest of Lalibela dance and sing the whole and morning of 7 Th January around the hole and campground that put up Bet Maryam church, the most venerated temple of Holy City.
Through its long periods of geographical and political isolation, Orthodox Church has developed ceremonies and festivals that today remain unique for their unrivalled atmosphere.

The five hundred monks and priest of Lalibela dance and sing the whole and morning of 7 Th January around the hole that put up Bet Maryam church, the most venerated temple of Holy City.
Through its long periods of geographical and political isolation, Orthodox Church has developed ceremonies and festivals that today remain unique for their unrivalled atmosphere.

Women that have been unable to have children take bath in the holy water during a long time in a ritual for fertility meanwhile a priest pray at the side of pool outside of Bet Maryam church. This immersion in cold water produces a shock in this woman.

Timkat (Epiphany) celebrated 19 Th January is the commemoration of Christ’s baptism. When the water of Fasilidas pool is blessed people are splashed or immersed in a ceremony where the faithful renew their vows.

Timkat (Epiphany) celebrated 19 Th January is the commemoration of Christ’s baptism. When the water of Fasilidas pool is blessed people are splashed or immersed in a ceremony where the faithful renew their vows.

Inside Bet Madhane Alem temple at the end of a ceremony at Christmas.
Each church has three or four entries: East doors only for priest, that to the South is only for women and that to the North only for men. Once inside men go to the left and women go to right (South).

In all temples access is difficult, some are like a labyrinth that gives a clear idea of character defensive of their construction. The connection between them also is by tunnels and underground corridors that only priests know them.

In all temples access is difficult; some are like a labyrinth that gives a clear idea of character defensive of their construction. The connection between them also is by tunnels and underground corridors that only priests know them.

Pilgrims cooking beans during Christmas worship in the campground around Bet Madhane rock-hewn church. The basic food, always present in Amharic and Tigray houses, is the INJERA made by grain called teff, cultivate in highlands.

Lalibela, a farmer village at bottom of four thousand altitude mountains is divided by Jordan river in two sides, at south is leaving majority of five hundred monks and priests that depend of donates after their land was nationalised by communist regimen in 70 Th.

Pilgrims cooking beans during Christmas worship in the campground around Bet Madhane rock-hewn church. The basic food, always present in Amharic and Tigray people, is the INJERA made by grain called teff, cultivate in highlands.

All images © Fernando Moleres

Fernando Moleres

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